River Cottage, Thursday 8pm, Channel 4
Posted by Jane Murphy
Say what you like about Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall - but he does pack a lot into each episode of River Cottage. Last night’s series opener saw him visit Gloucestershire’s premiere perry-maker, forage for mushrooms in the woods, cook a campfire lunch for a bunch of tree-planters, free-dive for scallops and squeeze in the obligatory jolly little scene in which he heads off to the abattoir with one of his livestock.
But the strange thing is he never seems to be rushing to squeeze all this in. On the contrary, there are times when the programme almost starts to drag. Yesterday, for example, there was a scene in which we watched him munch his way through a slice of straight-from-the-oven pear cake for what seemed like five minutes. Ah, life is much more laid-back and leisurely down on the farm…
Hugh’s visit to perry-meister Dave Casper certainly did its job because by the end of the segment, I was gagging for a glass of perry simply because they’d made it look so tasty and inviting. To clarify, this is proper perry, made with fresh West Country pears - not to be confused with its dysfunctional relative, processed pear cider (the mere mention of which actually made Hugh gob on the ground).
However, the highlight of the show for me was Hugh’s free-diving lesson, in which he learnt to hold his breath underwater for more than three minutes (don’t try this at home, kids). He then dived down into the sea at Weymouth and produced handfuls of perfect-looking scallops, which looked almost too good to be true. It later transpired they’d been “planted” there by professional divers John and Bryn, just to ensure Hugh would have something nice to cook for their tea. Now, that’s just cheating.
In saying all this, I’m trying to banish from my mind the image of Hugh throwing a two-foot long ox tongue into his offal stew shortly after sending his two-year-old steer to slaughter. I mean, really. Couldn’t he just have baked another nice cake instead?
So what did you think of last night‘s River Cottage? Have your say here.
Picture: Channel 4
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